I have a
"Tips for Gluing Internal Battens in Roman Shades" Blog Entry on my latest information about gluing the battens inside the shade for all types of fabrics, including silk. You should read that post before deciding if you need to sew pockets.
Batten PocketsYou can easily sew pockets in your shade for battens. After the top is completed, including sewing the loop fastener (the soft part of the Velcro), carefully mark your fold lines on the shade. (Your shade is right-side out.) You can mark on the front fabric side, or on the back lining side, whichever you feel will be less noticeable. I just use straight pins, then I don't have to worry about leaving marks. If you are using the 3/16" diameter battens that I recommend, stitch through both layers (front and lining) 1/4" away from both sides of the fold "line". This will make a 1/2" pocket for each fold. Be sure to backstitch at both ends of the stitch lines.
This technique is NOT recommended if you are using Blackout lining. You will see two bright parallel lines of needle holes where the light isn't blocked. If you really want to sew pocksts, you can cover up the stitch holes by gluing a narrow strip of Blackout lining over the horizontal stitch-lines after you are done. Why don't you just try gluing the battens on the inside of your shade?
Using a seam ripper or sharp pair of scissors, make a small slit at one end in each lining pocket on the back of the shade. Slide a batten into each pocket. If you wish, you can whip stitch the opening closed. I don't bother, they don't seem to come out. When you sew on your lift rings, push the battens up to the top of the pocket. You will be sewing around the battens, securing them (and the lift rings) to both layers of the shade.
I used to make my shades this way (with pockets) before I figured out how to glue the battens into the inside of the shade. Remember, I usually make pieced shades, so I was changing the thread color every few inches, and it was not pleasant to be in the same room with me when I was doing this! I did not like the effect of the horizontal stitching lines, either. So I do urge you to use the glue method. If you are worried about seeing the glue from the front of the shade, take a short piece of batten, even a chopstick or small twig will work, and glue it to the back of a test piece of fabric. Be sure to use a small dot of glue, weight with a book or heavy magazine, and let dry for at least 4 hours.
Gluing Battens to the Lining (instead of the Front Fabric)
You can glue the battens to the lining UNLESS YOU ARE USING BLACKOUT (see below). This works on Thermalsuede lining as well as all non-coated linings such as Sateen. Measure from the bottom of the front fabric, which is 1/2" below the bottom of the lining. If you are gluing battens to the back side of Thermalsuede lining be sure to measure carefully. You will probably pull the foam off if you try to remove the battens after drying.
You cannot glue battens to the foam side of Blackout lining. Something in the glue interacts with the black-out layer. About every fifth glue dot will peel off over time, along with the black-out layer. Not a pretty sight.
