Close Your Classic Shade Top
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Your shade is now right side out, with the bottom of both the front fabric and the lining hemmed and the sides sewn together. With the fabric front side up, smooth into place. Peek under the hem and make sure that the lining and front fabric are 1/2" apart along the entire width of the shade. It is important that the center not sag and that the lining not fall below the front fabric. Carefully smooth the shade up towards the top edge. Pin the front fabric and lining together about 4" below the top edges at frequent intervals. Mark the Finished Shade Length using pins. Turn the top of the shade under along the line of pins and press. Measure the Finished Shade Length once again (measure twice, sew once). Trim the shade (both the front fabric and the lining) 3/4" PAST the pins.
Now you will:
Close the top of your Classic Roman shade using sew-on loop fastener.
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You are going to sew a piece of Loop Fastener to the top of the shade on the back side. Loop Fastener is the "soft" looped part of Hook and Loop Fastener (Velcro). The Loop Fastener will be mated to the Hook Fastener, which will be stapled to your mounting board. Pin the Loop Fastener in place on the back side of the shade at the top. Place it so that it is just below the top edge and side of the shade and covers the raw edges of the turned over top.
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Using bobbin thread that matches the front fabric, sew the top edge of the Loop Fastener to the shade, backstitching at each end. Go slowly, holding the fabrics both behind and in front of the machine needle and tugging gently to avoid slippage. Remove all of the pins and measure the Finished Shade Width at the top where you stitched on the Loop Fastener. If it is still correct, proceed.
Sew the bottom edge of the Loop Fastener to the shade, backstitching at each end. You can see the second row of stitching at the bottom edge (left edge) of the Velcro in the photograph. Ignore the thread exiting from the presser foot. I forgot to photograph this step and stuck the shade back in the machine.
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Measure the length of your shade in at least three places (both sides and in the center). Verify that this is the same as your Finished Shade Length. Your machine sewing is almost complete. You only have to conceal the raw side edges at the bottom of the shade by folding up the fabric and tacking. You will be leaving the bottom of your shade open (it now looks like a pillowcase), so you need to hide the 1/2" of raw edges at the bottom of the shade at the side seams. While the colored thread is still in your sewing machine, fold the bottom of the side seams up on a diagonal and tack. |
Using a pencil, mark the center of your shade on the back on the Loop Fastener (Velcro). Make all of your final measurements for your hardware now so that you can cut the mounting board, battens and weight rod. Sewing is an imprecise art and your actual Finished Shade Width and Finished Shade Length may be slightly different from your Pattern. If you had items pre-cut when you ordered, don't worry about slight variances.
Mounting Board: Cut 1/4" shorter than the width at the TOP of your shade using a hand saw.
Battens: Cut 1/2" shorter than the width at the MIDDLE of your shade using kitchen shears (NOT your fabric scissors), wire cutters or wire strippers.
Weight Rod: Cut the weight rod 1.25" shorter than the width at the BOTTOM of your shade using a hack saw. (You will be inserting your rod into the hem of the lining, which is narrower than the shade front.)
Continue the instructions by scrolling up and clicking on "Install your Internal Battens" in the left-hand navigation column.
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