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Close the Top of Top-Down Shade
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Before you make your top pocket, you should measure the size of your stiffener board. Measure the depth and the width of the Stiffener Board.
Pocket Depth = stiffener width + 2 x stiffener depth As an example, if you are using the 3/4" screen molding that we sell online, your Pocket Depth = 3/4" + 2 x 1/4" = 1-1/4".
The top of your Top-Down Shade contains a pocket for a Stiffener Board. You are ready to make the top pocket and close the top of your shade.
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Place your shade on a work surface with the front side up and smooth into place. Peak under the hem to make sure the lining is 1/2" above the front fabric across the entire width of the shade. Smooth the shade up towards the top edge. Pin the front fabric and lining together about 6” below the top edges at frequent intervals.
Mark the Finished Shade Length using straight pins. Remember that this is shorter than you TDBU “Treatment” Length, which includes the headrail. You should have about 4” of extra fabric extending past your marked Finished Shade Length. You will be using this extra fabric/lining to fold back behind the shade to make a pocket for the Stiffener Board. Turn the top edge of the shade over and press thoroughly. |
You will trim off the excess fabric so that you have the perfect amount to make your pocket:
Top Trim Size = Pocket Depth + 1"
As an example, if you are using the 3/4" screen molding as you Stiffener Board, your Top Trim Size is 2.25".
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Open up the top fold and trim the top of the shade the Top Trim Size past the pins. Press the very top edge of the shade under 1/2". Now press along the pins that mark the top of your shade once again.
Remove your straight pins. Refold the top of the shade in both locations and stitch through all thicknesses to make your Stiffener pocket. You will be stitching in two locations: 1/2" below the top of the pocket and right at the very bottom edge of the pocket. Be sure to use bobbin thread that matches the front of your shade.
Measure the length of your shade in at least three places (both sides and in the center). Verify that this is the same as your Finished Shade Length. Your machine sewing is almost complete. You only have to conceal the raw side edges at the bottom of the shade by folding up the fabric and tacking. You will be leaving the bottom of your shade open (it now looks like a pillowcase), so you need to hide the 1/2" of raw edges at the bottom of the shade at the side seams. While the colored thread is still in your sewing machine, fold the bottom of the side seams up on a diagonal and tack. This is shown in the drawing below. |
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Make your final measurements for your battens and weight rod. Sewing is an imprecise art and your actual Finished Shade Width and Finished Shade Length may be slightly different from your Pattern. If you had items pre-cut when you ordered, don't worry about slight variances.
Battens: Cut 1/2" shorter than the width at the MIDDLE of your shade using kitchen shears (NOT your fabric scissiors), wire cutters or wire strippers.
Weight Rod: Cut the weight rod 1.25" shorter than the width at the BOTTOM of your shade using a hack saw. (You will be inserting your rod into the hem of the lining, which is narrower than the shade front.)
Continue the instructions by scrolling up and clicking on "Install your Internal Battens" in the left-hand navigation column.
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