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Close Top of Valance
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Place the Valance fabric side up on a work surface. Smooth into place. Measure from the bottom edge to the desired length. Press under along the line of pins, open up fold and trim excess top fabric and lining so that you have 3/4" extending past the top of the fold.
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From this point on, you will be using different directions depending upon whether you are making an Inside-Mount Valance or an Outside-Mount Valance.
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Completing an Inside-Mount Valance. Refold the top layers along the straight pins you inserted to mark the finished top of your Valance. Pin loop fastener (the soft side of your Velcro) on the back side at the top of the Valance. Be sure that the lower edge of the Velcro covers the raw edges of the fabric and lining. Stitch through all layers (front fabric/lining, back fabric/lining and Velcro) using thread that matches the front fabric. Stitch along both the top and bottom edges of the Velcro, being sure to backstitch at each end. |
Since you will be looking "up" at a Valance, I like to tack the hem to the front every 8" to 12". Before mounting your Valance to the board, mark the center on the loop fastener using a pencil. Do the same on the hook fastener on the board. Mount the board inside your window. Place the Valance on the board, beginning at the center, then working out to each side.
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Completing an Outside-Mount Valance. After years of making “soft corner” Valances, I came up with a way to stiffen the corners so that the Valance hangs crisply at the corners. The completed treatment almost looks like a padded cornice board. You will be adding corner “tucks”.
Refold the top layers along the straight pins you inserted to mark the finished top of your Valance. Mark the location of the corner tucks as shown in the drawing. Note that you will be leaving a gap of about 1" at the fold. That is not a typo. The entire gap is 1". The center of the tuck is 1/2" from the edge of the Velcro. |
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Pin the loop fastener (soft part of the Velcro) on the back side at the top of the Valance. Be sure that the lower edge of the Velcro covers the raw edges of the fabric and lining. Stitch through all layers (front fabric/lining, back fabric/lining and Velcro) using thread that matches the front fabric. Stitch along both the top and bottom edges of the Velcro, being sure to backstitch at each end. Note that you will NOT be sewing Velcro in the location of the corner tucks. |
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Fold the wrong sides together on the tuck line. Using thread that matches your front fabric, stitch 1/4” from the edge, backstitching at each end.
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For those who are good at math, I have to explain about the extra 1/4" when you mark your tuck line. In addition to the Return, you added ¾” on each side. You sewed a ¼” tuck. Since that was doubled, you took care of 1/2”, but where did that extra 1/4" go? The “package” is so thick when you sew the tuck, that you lose just about 1/4" even if you sew exactly a quarter-inch seam. Believe me, it is better for the finished Valance to be slightly larger than necessary, than for it to be smaller. |
Since you will be looking "up" at a Valance, I like to tack the hem to the front every 8" to 12". Before mounting your Valance to the board, mark the center on the loop fastener using a pencil. Do the same on the hook fastener on the board. Mount the board on your wall or window. Place the Valance on the board, beginning at the center, then working out to each side and around the edge to the sides.
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