All of the examples still show a Classic Roman shade, not a Top-Down shade. You will have to modify your design if you are making a Top-Down shade. The only differences are that you cut your front fabric and lining 10" longer than the Finished Shade Length (rather than 8" longer) and the Pattern is for your shade, not the overall treatment (which includes the Headrail).
Print a copy of the Pattern Template page. You will need a pencil and eraser, calculator, ruler (optional), a red pen and a blue pen.
Step 1. Fill in all of the information at the bottom of the template using the printout from the Hardware Calculator. Circle either left-hand side or right-hand side for the Cord Pull and the type of Mount (Inside or Outside, Flat or Projected). Note that you can have any combination for the Mounting Type: Inside/Projected, Outside/Flat, Outside/Projected, etc.
Step 2. Complete the very bottom section of the Pattern Template by calculating the Cut Front Fabric width and length and the Cut Lining width and length using the formulas that have been provided.
Step 3. Using a pencil, draw your shade inside the large square on the Pattern Template. If you like to be precise, you can use a ruler and draw to-scale. I just sketch. Draw a rectangle and label Finished Width and Finished Length.
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Step 4. Draw a dashed line near the bottom of the shade across the width of your shade in the approximate location of the Lower Drop. This will be the location of your lowest row of lift rings and your lowest batten, if you are using them. Write the size of the Lower Drop in this area.
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Step 5. Now you need to draw the fold lines on your Pattern. The Calculator printout gives you the number of folds and the Fold Depth. You already drew the lowest fold line, since that is the location of the Lower Drop. Draw the rest of the dashed fold lines by measuring up (by eye) a distance equal to the Fold Depth. The total number of horizontal dashed lines on your drawing is the same as the number of folds given by the Hardware Calculator. Write the size of the Folds in each area. Notice that you are writing one less Fold size than your total. We will label the last Fold in the next step.
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Step 6. Measure up one more Fold Depth and draw a dotted line. Make sure this is different from the dashed fold lines. Your shade will NOT fold on this dotted line. The distance between this dotted line and the top of your shade is the Top Border. Write the sizes of the last fold and Top Border in each area.
Step 7. Use your calculator to add all of the numbers together to verify that they equal the Finished Shade Length.
Step 8. Up Folds and Down Folds. Using a pencil, label your folds. Begin at your lowest dashed line. This is an Up Fold. The next dashed line is a Down Fold. Continue labeling your dashed lines until you reach the top line. This will be a Down Fold. Do not label the dotted line that shows the location of the Top Border.
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Now you need to add the “hardware” to your drawing.
Step 9. Begin with the internal battens. Using a red pen, draw over each dashed line, beginning at the lowest one. You will have an even number of battens. Do NOT draw a red line on the dotted line at the top of your shade that depicts the Top Border. If you are not using battens, you can skip this step. Now you need to add the "hardware" to your drawing.
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Step 10. Using a blue pen, draw your vertical lift lines. You will always have a lift line at each side of the shade. Typically they are about 1" in from the edge. Draw these two vertical lines in blue ink beginning at the top of the shade and ending at the Lower Drop (not at the bottom of the shade). Refer to your Hardware Calculator printout for the total number of lift lines. If you have a total of three, draw the third line in the center of the shade. If you have four lift lines, draw the remaining two about equidistance between the outside two. If you have five lift lines, draw one in the center of the shade and the remaining two half-way between the outside line and the center line. The example below shows six lift lines.
A comment about the location of lift lines. This issue seems to really bother a lot of you. Your Pattern needs to show the approximate location and the correct number of lift lines. The exact location of your lift lines and lift rings on your shade will be determined when you build your mounting board. You will cut your board to the correct size, typically 1/4" shorter than your Finished Shade Width. You will then attach either pulleys or screw eyes to the board. One pulley will go as close to each edge of the board as possible. The remaining pulleys will be equally spaced between the two outside pulleys. The centers of the pulleys or screw eyes determine the exact location of your lift lines.
Step 11. It is time to add your lift rings. The lift rings will be sewn on each Up Fold at each lift line intersection. Use your pencil and begin at the bottom of the shade. Draw a blue circle at the intersection of each lift line and Up Fold. Notice that the top row of lift rings is quite a way down from the top of the shade. Do NOT draw lift rings on the dotted line that marks the Top Border.
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Step 12. Your drawing has the hardware "showing through". However, your sketch is a "working" pattern and depicts the front of the shade. Keeping this in mind, draw the location of the pull cords where they will exit the shade. If you are right-handed, this will most likely be on the right side of the shade. If it will be easier to access cords from the left-hand side, draw them there. Also note where you want the cords to end when they are tied off. I stand at the window to be covered and put my arm straight out. That is where you want the cords to hang when the shade is all of the way down. |
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Step 13. Sketch your Headrail in the area above your shade. Draw in three dimensions so you can easily see whether you will be mounting your shade with a Flat Installation or a Projected Installation. Draw a pulley or screw eye at each lift line location. I also draw the hook fastener on the board. This way I have a reminder that the pulleys go on the "bottom" of the board and the Velcro goes on the "front" of the board at the top edge.
Congratulations. You have made your very own Pattern for your very own Roman shade. Keep this pattern in a safe place. You will refer to it at each stage of your construction process.
For a copy of the complete Pattern Template Example, click here.
I received a wonderful suggestion from Phyllis Franklin of Marion, Ohio:
Thank you for your wonderful web site and the instructions for making Roman shades.
I have made several in the past couple of years using your great instructions.
Since I am a "visual learner" and need to actually see something before I start the actual work here is an idea I would like to pass on to you . I use calculator paper. I am sure you know what this is but just to be sure...it is used in calculators that give a printed output. It can be purchased at an office supply store or at discount stores. (A comment from Terrell, we offer this in our online store. We call it Adding Machine Paper.)
Cut a piece of calculator paper several inches longer than the cut length of the front fabric.
On this strip of paper
1. make a line for the cut edge of the top of the fabric,
2. measure down 2 inches and make a line to mark the top of the mounting board.
3. measure down the fold depth (for example: 7") + 3/4" (screw eyes) and 3/4" (the lift rings)
and make a line to represent the first fold.
4. measure down and mark lines for the remaining folds (for example: each line is 7" apart)
5. measure down and make a line for the lower drop.
6. finally make a line 6" down from the lower drop edge for the 3" double hem allowance.
Take the folded paper to your window and let it unfold and you will see just where the folds will be. If the fold depth needs to be adjusted a little you can just erase your lines, re-markand try again. The paper can be folded and re-folded until you come up with the exact fold depth you need. Use a warm iron to smooth out previous folds before re-folding. Since paper will not stretch, you can use it to mark your fabric for the top turn under and the hem line.
