You use the Finished SHADE Width and Finished SHADE Length when you use the Hardware Calculator. When you make your top-down shade, you will first make the mounting board. This way you can make the shade the correct length since it "stops" at the bottom of the lifting hardware. However, you have to start somewhere, so you will use an estimate of the Headrail Length to determine your folding specifics and hardware requirements.
Referring to the drawing at the top of the page: Finished Length = Headrail Length + Finished Shade Length.
The Headrail Length is the length of the entire mounting "stuff": the board and the hardware (flat pulleys, screw eyes, cord lock pulleys). The assumption is that you are using a standard 1x2 board in a Projected Installation. The measurements below are for the items we sell in our Online Store. If you purchase your parts locally or from another source, then you will have to adjust the numbers.
Board: 3/4"
Screw Eye: 7/8"
Flat Pulley: 5/8"
Cord Lock Pulley: 1-1/2"
To get the Headrail Length, you add up the length of the Board and the longest hardware item you are using.
Headrail length using only flat pulleys: 3/4" + 5/8" = 1-3/8"
Headrail length using only screw eyes: 3/4" + 7/8" = 1-5/8"
Headrail length using flat pulleys and a cord lock pulley: 3/4" + 1-1/2" = 2-1/4"
Headrail length using screw eyes and a cord lock pulley: 3/4" + 1-1/2" = 2-1/4"
Now you can determine the Finished SHADE Length: Finished Shade Length = Finished (Treatment) Length - Headrail Length.
If you are making an
Inside Mount Shade, you should
subtract an additional 1/4" which is the diameter of the lift rings. It is better to have a small gap at the top of the shade (this is covered up with the Valance) than to not be able to raise the shade all of the way up.
Using the Hardware (Folding) Calculator for a Top-Down/Bottom-Up Shade
FINISHED Width of Shade: same as for Classic Shade
FINISHED Length of Shade: We just calculated it above. It is shorter than the length of the entire treatment.
Ideal Stackage: The shade will stack in the Down position: this is the "Down Stackage". You need to input this for Ideal Stackage. The "Up Stackage" will be larger. The shade will fold up to the same Stackage as it folds down, but you also have the hardware to consider. I usually don't have the shade disappear into the Valance for a Top-Down shade. This way I can make a shorter Valance. However, if you want your shade to disappear into the Valance when you raise it, you should add the Headrail Length to your Ideal Stackage to get your actual Stackage. Then add at least an inch so to the length of the Valance so that the shade really will disappear when pulled up.
You will often get a "better" folding scenario (larger and fewer folds for the same Stackage) if you specify No for the question "I will be using a cord lock pulley". The Hardware Calculator needs to be modified for the Top-Down shade calculations. It currently leaves more Top Border if you specify "Yes" for cord lock pulley since it hangs down further into the top of the shade. Not so for a Top-Down shade. Just remember to actually purchase a cord lock pulley if you want one. It will not be on the shopping list.
If you are making an Inside Mount Top-Down shade, the length of the mounting board and the amount of Hook & Loop Fastener will be incorrect. That is because we have not asked if you are making an Inside Mount or an Outside Mount shade. The numbers are correct for an Outside Mount shade. Your mounting board will be made wider than your shade so that it can be pulled up without interfering with the sides (returns) of the Valance. If you are making an Inside Mount shade, your board should be slightly shorter (about 1/8") than the width of the opening at the top of your window. The Velcro (used to attach your Valance to the board, not the shade to the board) should be the same length.