Front Fabric and Lining
We have already discussed appropriate front fabrics and lining. Take your Pattern Sketch to the fabric store. You have the cut sizes of both at the bottom of the page. If the required Cut Width of your fabric and/or lining is wider than the width of your fabric, you will have to join two or more fabric widths. Standard practice is to place one full width in the center of the shade and two smaller widths on each side. Click here for more information on joining fabric widths. If you will have a lift line running down the center of the shade, it is alright to have a center seam instead. I use a 1/4" seam to join two sections of fabric together. If you are using heavy-weight fabric, use a 1/2" seam. Be sure to include this seam allowance when you are determining how much fabric to purchase. If you are unsure about quantities, show your Pattern Sketch to a clerk in the fabric store. They are usually very helpful and can make sure you purchase the correct yardage.

The Hardware Calculator gives a recommended yardage for 54"-wide lining. This is a rough estimate of the amount of lining you will need to make your shade. Be sure to make your own calculation before purchasing material.

Hardware Decisions
Let's go through the Hardware Requirements on your Hardware Calculator printout and discuss your options. All items on your printout are available in our Shopping Area on this site. Most items are also available locally. You can read the "More Details" page for each hardware item for suggestions on where to purchase items in your area.

Internal Plastic Battens. The first four items are Plastic Battens. If you checked Yes for the statement "I will be using wooden or plastic battens.", your printout will give a quantity for one of the four sizes of battens. I have been using internal battens in my Roman shades for over 15 years. I LOVE them. Why? Two reasons.

1. If you use battens in the fold lines, your shades will fold up perfectly, even the first time you raise them. Most directions for making Roman shades do not include placing battens on the fold lines. Most Roman shades also "bunch-up" when you raise them and require "training" so that they fold cleanly. You will spend many hours making your shade. Do you really want to fuss with it every time you raise it?
2. Battens also allow you to space your lift lines much further apart than normal. Instead of the standard 6" to 8" horizontal spacing, there can be as much as 20" between ring columns. That means you have to sew on a lot fewer rings.

Plastic Batten Splice. If your Finished Shade Width is larger than 60" (5-feet), you will need a Plastic Batten Splice to join two battens. The Hardware Calculator assumes that you will cut pieces to size, so you may only get one extra batten. If you are not using battens, this will say NA (not applicable).

Flat Pulley. This item is used on the mounting board to direct the lift lines up and out the top side of the shade. They are used instead of screw eyes. If you are using screw eyes, simply substitute them for this item. Why do you recommend using pulleys instead of the standard screw eyes on the headrail? Have you ever used both hands to pull up a fabric shade? I can guarantee you that shade had screw eyes on the headrail to direct the lift cords. You can make an amazingly large shade and lift it easily if you thread your lift lines through pulleys. They are essential for large shades. In fact, I prefer the "feel" so much that I use them on even the smallest shade. The quality of operating your shade should match the custom look of your fabric front. 

Knot Screw Eye. This item should say NA (not applicable). You only use a Knot Screw Eye (a very small screw eye) if you are making a Top-Down shade.

Cord Lock Pulley. If you specified that you would be using a cord lock pulley, this line will say you need one. The Hardware Calculator computes quantities for one shade. You only need one cord lock pulley for a shade. It is placed at the edge of the mounting board, with a Flat Pulley mounted in-tandem to direct the cords into the locking mechanism. 

Hook and Loop Fastener. You be attaching your shade to the mounting board using hook and loop fastener (Velcro). Why do I recommend using Velcro to attach the shade to the mounting board instead of simply stapling it to the top of the board? I made my first shade the "conventional" way by stapling it to the mounting board. Of course, my first shade was two large panels on one board, which was for a double sliding door. Picture this: here I am on a tall ladder, underneath the shade, trying to hold up the board (with shades attached) and screw it to the angle irons. My arms were aching and my neck hurt. Then I climb down from under the shades, only to see that they are hanging crooked. So I try to remove the staples, ripping a few hole in the fabric (my beautiful pieced shades that I have spent hours and hours sewing) and attempt to re-staple them while the board is still attached to the wall. Well, that didn't work, so I took the board down, re-stapled the shade, climbed back under the shades and started over. I vowed to never again do that, and have used hook and loop fastener on all of my shades since then. The fastener holds even the largest shade. In order to un-mate the fasteners, you have to pull out from the window. The force on the shade (don't forget, I am a physicist!) is downward. The shades do not come off all by themselves no matter who large or heavy they are. 

You can find "soft" Velcro in a general sewing store like JoAnn's Fabrics. Be sure to get the soft, sew-on variety. It is about half as thick (and twice as expensive) as the regular Velcro. You can also purchase soft hook and loop fastener at our Online Store. When you try to sew regular-weight Velcro to the top (through two-thickness of fabric and two-thickness of lining), the shade top shrinks noticeably in width. Using the soft Velcro fixes this problem.

Lift Ring. The quantity given by the Hardware Calculator should be same as the number of rings you drew on your Pattern. Be sure that your lift rings are stable to ultraviolet light since they are on the back of your shade and will be exposed to sunlight.

Lift Cord. The quantity given by the Hardware Calculator might seem like a lot based upon the size of your shade. Each cord goes the length of your shade, across the top and then back down again. Since the Calculator has no way of knowing where you want the cords to end on the side of your shade, it simply doubles the length of the shade and adds in the width (for each lift line). This way, you will have enough cord. Roman shade lift cord comes in various sizes, usually somewhere between 1-mm and 2-mm diameter. Once again, be sure that the cord is stable to ultraviolet light. It should also be tightly woven so that it will be resistant to abrasion, especially if you insist on using screw eyes.

Cord Drop. This item is used to finish-off the end of your lift cords. You will need one of these for each shade. Be sure that it has some "weight" to it so that the cords hang nicely.

Cord Cleat. You need one of these for each shade if you are NOT using a cord lock pulley. If you specified that you were using a cord lock pulley, the quantity will read NA (not applicable).

Mounting Board. You will probably be using a 1x2 board that is good quality pine. The actual measurement of the board will be about 3/4" by 1-3/4", due to loss when it is milled. The length of the board will be cut to 1/4" shorter than the Finished Shade Width.

Stiffener Board. You only use a Stiffener Board if you are making a Top-Down shade. It is slipped into a pocket at the top of the shade and prevents the top from sagging when lowered.

Weight Rod.  Aluminum or Steel. The Hardware Calculator will recommend the correct type of weight rod based upon the size of your shade. You will have one weight rod for each shade. You will cut the rod 1.25" shorter than the Finished Shade Width since it will be slipped into the hem of the lining.

Rod Splice. If your Finished Shade Width is larger than 60" you will need a rod splice to join two rods. You should join your rods before cutting to 1.25" shorter than the Finished Shade Width.

Angle Iron.  You only use angle irons if you are making a Top-Down shade. These directions have you attach the mounting board for a Classic Roman shade directly to your wall or window trim without an angle iron.

Supplies
The very bottom of the Hardware Calculator results lists four supply items. Let's review each of these items.

Aleene's Jewel-It Fabric Glue. If you are using internal battens, you will be gluing them inside your shade. This glue was developed for permanently attaching sequins to T-shirts. It works perfectly for gluing your plastic battens to the fabric shade. It dries clear and remains flexible even after hanging in your window for years. Regular white glue (such as Elmer's glue) becomes brittle when exposed to sun. Your battens will just fall off after a few months in your window.

Adding Machine Paper. You need this item when sewing a foam-backed lining to the front fabric if your sewing machine does not have a walking presser foot. It prevents the presser foot from sticking on the foam and shifting your fabrics when you are stitching. More information can be found in the directions on sewing the side seams of your shade.

Scotchgard Fabric Spray. Use this spray to protect your shade from soil and grease. If you are using decorator fabric, it may already be treated with a stain-resistant finish. Check the bolt. 

Button & Craft Thread. Use this strong thread to sew on your lift rings. A special glace starch finish prevents tangling and knots, and provides abrasion resistance. The color of the thread should match your front fabric. If you use regular thread, you have to take double the number of stitches to attach your lift rings.

Continue the Learning Process with "Tools for Making Roman Shades"

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Contact Information:
Terrell Designs, owned by Terrell Sundermann 
5325 Sanford Cir. E. Englewood, Colorado 80113
Phone: (303) 758-0188  Email:

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