We refer to the hardware attached to the headrail as the lifting mechanism. This hardware provides a way for the lift cords, which are tied to the lowest row of lift rings, to exit one side of the shade so that you can evenly and easily lift the shade. Let's look at the options for lifting mechanisms.

First, you have to begin with a board. The recommended mounting board is a 1x2 pine board. These are readily available in all lumber stores and home stores, such as The Home Depot. The actual size of the board is usually 3/4" by 1-1/2" and it is sold in 3-ft, 6-ft and 8-ft lengths. The lifting hardware is attached to the "bottom" of this board and your shade is either attached (with staples or Velcro) to the front of the board (in the case of a Classic Roman shade) or hung from the board (in the case of a Top-Down shade). Each lift cord runs up a column of lift rings to the top of the shade. It is necessary to "direct" each cord along the top of the board and out one side of the shade. The cords are then braided together and used to lift the shade.

The simplest and least expensive option is to use screw eyes. A cord cleat is used to tie-off the cord at any position.

Advantages: inexpensive
Disadvantages: the lift cord rubs on the screw eyes when the shade is raised. This friction makes it difficult to raise the shade, particularly a large shade. The cord can even shred over time.

The next method is to use pulleys instead of screw eyes. I have seen shades that have only one pulley at the location where the cords exit the shade. This does make the shade easier to pull up, but the cord still rubs on the other screw eyes. I prefer to use a simple pulley at EACH cord location. Once again, a cord cleat is used to tie-off the cord at any position.

Advantages: operating the shade is smooth and easy.
Disadvantages: the pulleys are more expensive than screw eyes.

The third method is to use a Cord Lock pulley in tandem with the outside pulley. The remaining lift lines use a simple pulley. This eliminates the need for a cord cleat. The shade is "locked" into place by swinging the lift cord away from the shade. The shade is "released" by swinging the lift cord toward the center of the shade.

Advantages: you don't need a cord cleat. Some people think that this gives a more "professional" look.
Disadvantages: you are now taking a simple lifting system and introducing more complicated parts. This can mean problems in terms of eventual cord shredding and failure of the Cord Lock. For a complete (and totally biased) discussion on Cord Locks, Click Here. 

The fourth method is to use a Continuous Loop System. This is becoming the "standard" lift system on ready-made shades sold in stores such as Sears and Home Depot. This system is also call a Clutch Lift System. The lift cords are wound around a metal shaft that is suspended from brackets attached to the mounting board. There is no need for a cord cleat since the shade is position by pulling on the looped cord.

Advantages: you don't need a cord cleat. You are definitely "up-to-date" as far as sophistication for your lift mechanism.
Disadvantages: There are many! I have one of these in my kitchen on a large shade covering a 7-foot sliding door. It takes me about 20 "pulls" on the loop cord to open (and close) the shade. I find this very annoying. The mounting board has to be placed in a projecting manner (the widest part of the board sticks out into the room) because the clutch is wide. I personally like for the shade to be closer to the wall. Building the headrail and stringing the shade is a lengthy process.

There is one more lifting option: motorization. These are available using a light-switch mechanism and/or a remote control. Since this involves hard wiring and a special (and expensive) headrail, I doubt that I will be discussing that option any time soon.

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Contact Information:
Terrell Designs, owned by Terrell Sundermann 
5325 Sanford Cir. E. Englewood, Colorado 80113
Phone: (303) 758-0188  Email: