Part 2: How To
Make a Top-Down/Bottom-Up Shade
Now that you understand the differences between a Classic Roman shade,
you are ready to design your shade.
As you
follow the Steps, you can click on the links for more information. Then
use the Back button on you browser to return to this page. If you have
already printed out prior Sections, simply print out this page also and
refer back to earlier parts. If you are unclear about any terms used, I
have given many definitions in the FAQs Terms
and Definitions Section.
Step
3. Decide how you will mount
your shade: inside
mount or outside mount. You will not be using a hybrid mount. Also,
Top-Down shades really don't belong on a French Door.

Remember that you
must use a "projected" installation since you need room for
two sets of lifting hardware.

Step
4. Measure your window or
windows.
Step
5. You must determine a Finished SHADE Width and a Finished SHADE Length
for each shade. You need to consider the "whole" shade system when you plan for
your finished size. In addition to your flat shade, you have the headrail, which
is covered by a short valance. To get accurate measurements for the Finished
Shade Length, you need to first make your headrail. Your design will begin with
an estimate of the headrail length (including pulleys and cord locks) so that you
can determine the Finished SHADE Length.
Estimation
of Headrail Length:
screw eyes: 1-1/2"
flat pulleys: 1-5/8"
cord lock pulleys: 2-1/4"
Finished SHADE Width and Finished
SHADE Length of an Outside Mount Top-Down Shade
Since you will be placing your mounting board on the wall above the
window you need to place your shade several inches above the window trim
to allow room for the lifting hardware. In general, I plan on placing the mounting board
at least 4"
above the top of the window. Or sometimes I begin with the Stackage and
then determine how many inches above the window frame I need to place
the board.
Finished SHADE Width = the
LARGEST measurement of
the width of the outside of your window + 6" (this adds 3" to each
side). This large extension beyond the window trim is necessary since
you are using a projected installation.
Finished SHADE Length = length of the window from the outside of the top trim to the
sill plus 4" minus the Headrail Length.
If
your window does not have a sill, add another inch to the Finished Shade
Length to make
sure that the entire window is covered when the shade is lowered.
Make
sure that you will not cover up light switches, etc.
Finished SHADE
Width and Finished SHADE Length of an Inside Mount Top-Down Shade
You measured both the width and length of your window opening in at
least three places.
Finished SHADE Width = the
SMALLEST measurement of the width of the inside of your window.
Finished SHADE Length = the
SMALLEST measurement of
the length of the inside of your window minus the Headrail Length and
minus 1/4". Do remember to subtract that extra 1/4" to
make up for the fact that your shade will not stitch up perfectly. If
your inside-mount shade is too long, it will not pull up all of the way
and you will be very unhappy.
In my book, I
recommended subtracting 1/4" from the window width so that the
shade would not rub the sides when raised and lowered. Well, six more years
of making inside-mount shades has led me to change that recommendation.
Due to the thickness of 2 layers of front fabric and 2 layers of lining,
your shade will never come out exactly the desired width. It will always
shrink. Measure and cut your fabric so that your IDEAL shade will be a
Finished Width that is the smallest inside measurement. A note on
heavy decorator fabrics: you need to ADD 1/4" to the width
of your window opening in order for your sewn shade to end up the correct
dimension.
Step
6. Use the
Hardware Calculator
to determine the fold depth and number of lift
lines for each shade. Your input will be the Finished SHADE Width and the
Finished Length of the entire window treatment, including the mounting
board and the Ideal Stackage. Your shade will stack to the
same size whether pulled all of the way up (Bottom-Up mode) or let all
of the way down (Top-Down mode). Be sure to do a separate calculation for each shade if you
will be covering multiple windows that are not the same size. If you want to
read more about Stackage in regards to a Top-Down/Bottom-Up shade, Click
Here.
Continue
the Learning Process with "Part 3:
Make a Top-Down/Bottom-Up Shade"
Back
to the top of this page
A
Comment on Copyright
These directions are
meant for you to print out and make your own shades. My intention in posting
them here for anyone to see and use is two-fold:
|
I no longer have to answer the same questions over and over again.
|
|
I am hoping that when you make your shades, you will order
some or all of the hardware and supplies from me.
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There is, of course, no way that I can guarantee that you purchase
anything from me. However, there is one thing you should NOT do.
That is, modify and claim these directions as your own.
Contact
Information:
Terrell
Designs, owned by Terrell Sundermann
5325 Sanford Cir. E. Englewood, Colorado 80113
Phone: (303) 758-0188 Email:
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