Make a Top-Down/Bottom-Up Shade

As you follow the Steps, you can click on the links for more information. Then use the Back button on you browser to return to this page. If you have already printed out prior Sections, simply print out this page also and refer back to earlier parts. If you are unclear about any terms used, I have given many definitions in the FAQs Terms and Definitions Section.

Step 7. Sketch a Design Plan for each shade. Prominently mark the Finished SHADE Width and Finished SHADE Length. These are the dimensions that you will use to make your fabric shade. Also mark the entire Finished width and the entire Finished length (this includes your headrail, which is covered with a valance). You will use these dimension to determine where to mount your shade.

Step 8. Purchase your front fabric, lining and hardware. Print out the results of the Hardware Calculator so that you have a list of your required hardware and supplies. Remember to do this for each size shade you are making. Also, if you are making multiple shades that are the same size, be sure to multiply your hardware requirements by the number of shades. 

Step 9. You make your headrail first for a Top-Down/Bottom-Up shade. You need the completed system in order to determine how long to make the fabric panel for your shade. What to have on hand for each Headrail:

• Finished Width of Top-Down/Bottom-Up shade
• 1x2 board (pine, cedar or whatever, as long as it is straight)
• muslin or other fabric to cover board
• two sets of pulleys (the Hardware Calculator gave you this total number for each shade) and "knot" screw eyes or Cord Lock Pulleys 
• hand saw, staple gun with 1/4" staples, Phillips head screwdriver, awl or ice pick or electric drill

Size of Headrail board:
    Inside Mount: width of window opening at top of window minus 1/4".
    Outside Mount: Finished SHADE Width plus at least 1".

(You can make the Board and Valance for an Outside Mount as wide as you wish.)

See the changes to the instructions if you are using cord locks. 

Cut and cover board.
Cut a 1x2 board to the Length given above using a hand saw. Cover the board using plain muslin or left-over fabric from the shade. (Cut the muslin 4-inches longer than the board and 1/2-inch wider than the circumference of the board.) Staple the hook fastener (Velcro) to three sides of the mounting board (both edges and the front). You will attach the Valance using this Velcro after you have mounted the board to the wall. 

If you are making an Inside Mount shade, you only attach the Velcro to the front of the board. The sides will be up against the inside of the window frame.

Attach pulleys.
Refer to Your Design to mark the locations of your pulleys. The outside pulleys should be placed 1/2" from the ends of the board. If you made the board more than 1" longer than the Finished Shade Width, move your pulleys further in from the outside edges. 

Top-Down pulleys. These are attached to the FRONT of the headrail using small wood screws (the front is where the Velcro is stapled). Place the pulleys close to the front edge of the board, since the Bottom-Up pulleys will go directly behind them. Your Top-Down cords will pull to the left side of the shade. Leave room on the front left edge of the board for a small screw eye.

Bottom-Up pulleys. These are attached to the BACK of the headrail directly behind the Top-Down Pulleys using small wood screws. Place the pulleys close to the back edge of the board. Your Bottom-Up cords will pull to the right side of the shade. Leave room on the back right edge of the board for a small screw eye.

Attach "knot" screw eyes and angle irons.
Attach a small screw eye on each side of the board as shown below. This screw eye will be used as a cord-stop (you will knot the lift cords) to limit the folding. Attach angle irons to the board. Place one at the first convenient location inside from each edge (this will probably be several inches in, after your outside pulleys). Then space about every 15"-18".

Why don't you space the two sets of pulleys (Top-Down and Bottom-Up) at different places on the board?
I tried almost every possible combination of placement before I decided to just place the pulleys directly behind each other. I redid my headrail  many times. It looked like Swiss cheese by the time I was done! I also had sewn and re-sewn all of the lift rings each time.

• First attempt (don't do this): I was modifying a regular Roman shade (Bottom-Up only), so I thought I would re-use the headrail, which was mounted flat on the wall above the shade. I added a second set of pulleys for the Top-Down function. The board is only 3/4" deep when mounted flat. There was no way to skip any pulleys (this would also be true if you used screw eyes). The cords interfered with each other and the shade did not lift and lower correctly.
• Second attempt (don't do this): I rotated my headrail for a flat installation and started again. My shade is 38-inches wide, so I used 3 guide/Bottom-Up pulleys (both edges and center), then placed 2 extra pulleys in between these. Well, the edges of my shade sagged when I lowered it, even though the stiffener looked quite sturdy.
• Third attempt (don't do this): I reversed the pulleys. I used 3 Top-Down  pulleys (both edges and center), then placed 2 extra pulleys in between these for the guide/Bottom-Up pulleys. The shade worked fine, but I didn't like the fact that I now had 5 lift lines visible when I lowered the shade.
• Fourth attempt (DO THIS): I placed the two sets of pulleys directly behind each other. When the Bottom-Up cords are strung through the back pulleys they stay well out of the way of the Top-Down cords, which are only attached to the top of the shade. The cords blended into each other and were less noticeable.

Changes to directions if you use cord lock pulleys.

• Use one cord lock for each function: Top-Down and Bottom-Up
• Read the entire section on Cord Lock Pulleys so that you understand how these devices work.
• Don't use a "knot" screw eye outside the cord lock. You need to be able to swing the cords freely to lock and unlock the cord lock.
• If you made your mounting board a lot wider than your shade, you can place the cord lock pulley right at the edge of the board, as long as the center of the tandem pulley will be at least 3/4" in from the edge of the shade. 
• Your Finished SHADE Length (fabric panel) will be shorter than if you are using only pulleys. The cord lock is 1-1/2" long, add in the length of a 1x2 board of 3/4" and you need to subtract at least 2-1/4" from your desired Finished Length when you make your shade.
• Measure carefully when you mark the location of your lift rings. Note where the cords enter the tandem pulley. 
• Have patience when you are threading the cord lock. You have to do this with it already mounted on the wall. You will also thread the lift rings while the shade is "mounted". If you have made your shade using Velcro at the top, this is an easy process.
• Have patience when you are installing your shade. It is tedious to correctly level the shade using a cord lock, and you have to level it several times.

Continue the Learning Process with "Part 4: Make a Top-Down/Bottom-Up Shade"

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A Comment on Copyright
These directions are meant for you to print out and make your own shades. My intention in posting them here for anyone to see and use is two-fold:

	I no longer have to answer the same questions over and over again.
	I am hoping that when you make your shades, you will order some or all of the hardware and supplies from me.

There is, of course, no way that I can guarantee that you purchase anything from me. However, there is one thing you should NOT do. That is, modify and claim these directions as your own. 

Contact Information:
Terrell Designs, owned by Terrell Sundermann 
5325 Sanford Cir. E. Englewood, Colorado 80113
Phone: (303) 758-0188  Email: