Make a Top-Down/Bottom-Up Shade

As you follow the Steps, you can click on the links for more information. Then use the Back button on you browser to return to this page. If you have already printed out prior Sections, simply print out this page also and refer back to earlier parts. If you are unclear about any terms used, I have given many definitions in the FAQs Terms and Definitions Section.

Step 10. Follow the instructions for How to Cut Front Fabric and Lining. Note the directions on how to join multiple widths of fabric for large shades.

Step 11. Hem both the front fabric and the lining. The length of both your front fabric and your lining should now be about the Finished Shade Length plus 4".

Step 12. Join the front fabric and the lining at the side seams, making a "tube". After you have turned the tube right-side out, measure the width in several locations. This should be the same as your Finished Shade Width. If it is not, decide if you can live with the "new" width or whether you need to re-sew one or both side seams.

Step 13. Make the top pocket for the Stiffener Board. The top edge of your Top-Down/Bottom-Up shade differs from a Classic Roman shade. It will hold a Stiffener Board and the Top-Down lift rings. The Stiffener Board is required so that the top edge is straight, since it is visible when the shade is lowered. The Top-Down lift rings must be sewn to the very top of this board (on the back at the top of the pocket). An additional "flap" of fabric extends beyond the pocket to hide these rings.

With the front side up, smooth into place. Turn up the hem and make sure that the lining and front fabric are 1/2" apart along the entire width of the shade. It is important that the center not sag and that the lining not fall below the front fabric. Carefully smooth the shade up towards the top edge. Pin the front fabric and lining together about 6" below the top edges at frequent intervals.

Mark the Finished SHADE Length using straight pins. Remember that this is shorter than your Top-Down/Bottom-Up Finished Length, which includes the headrail (covered by the valance). You should have about 4" of extra shade extending past your marked Finished Shade Length. You will be using this extra fabric/lining to fold back behind the shade to make a pocket for the Stiffener Board. 

Determine how big your stiffener pocket must be. Measure the depth and the width of your Stiffener Board. Add two times the depth plus the width.

Pocket Depth = 2 x stiffener depth + stiffener width

As an example, if you are using the 3/4" screen molding as your Stiffener Board, your Pocket Depth is 1.25". Now you can calculate where to trim your top edge.

Top Fabric Trim Size = Pocket Depth + 1"

As an example, once again if you are using 3/4" screen molding as your Stiffener, your Top Fabric Trim Size is 2.25". 

Open up the fold and trim the top of the shade the Top Fabric Trim Size past the pins. 

Press the very top edge of the shade under 1/2". Now press along the pins that mark the top of your shade. 

REMOVE YOUR STRAIGHT PINS. Refold the top of the shade in both locations and stitch through all thicknesses to make your stiffener pocket. You will be stitching in two locations: 1/2" below the top of the pocket and right at the very bottom edge of the pocket. Be sure to use bobbin thread that matches the front of your shade.

Step 14. Finally, cover the raw side edges at the bottom of the shade by folding up the fabric and tacking.

How to "Finish" Bottom of Side Seams:
You will be leaving the bottom of your shade open (it will look like a pillowcase). However, you do need to hide the 1/2" of raw edges at the bottom of the shade at the side seams. While the colored thread is still in your sewing machine, fold the bottom of the side seams up and tack. 

If you are making a Top-Down Only shade, return to those directions by clicking here.

Step 15. Make all of your final measurements for your battens and weight rod now so that you can cut the mounting board, battens and weight rod. Sewing is an imprecise art and your actual Finished Shade Width and Finished Shade Length may be slightly different from your Design Plan. This is why you bought items a little bit longer than your "ideal" measurements.
Battens: Cut 1/2" shorter than the width at the MIDDLE of your shade
Weight Rod: Turn your shade over and measure the width of the LINING at the hem (it will be almost an inch narrower than your measurement for the mounting board and battens). Cut the weight rod 1/2" shorter than the width of the Lining. This means that the weight rod will be cut about 1" to 1-1/2" narrower than the width of the shade.

Step 16. Glue Battens inside your shade. You can skip this step if you are willing to "train" your shade to fold and "dress" the folds periodically. If you want a truly professional shade, I urge you to use internal battens.

Step 17. Use the Headrail to mark the locations of your Bottom-Up lift rings. 
Now mark one more row of rings using the Bottom-Up pulleys. These should be somewhere near the top of the shade, but BELOW the Stiffener Pocket. You will pass the Bottom-Up lift cord through these rings to keep the top of the shade lined up when you lower it. Sew on your Bottom-Up rings.

If you are making a Top-Down Only shade, return to those directions by clicking here.

 
Continue the Learning Process with "Part 5: Make a Top-Down/Bottom-Up Shade"

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A Comment on Copyright
These directions are meant for you to print out and make your own shades. My intention in posting them here for anyone to see and use is two-fold:

	I no longer have to answer the same questions over and over again.
	I am hoping that when you make your shades, you will order some or all of the hardware and supplies from me.

There is, of course, no way that I can guarantee that you purchase anything from me. However, there is one thing you should NOT do. That is, modify and claim these directions as your own. 

Contact Information:
Terrell Designs, owned by Terrell Sundermann 
5325 Sanford Cir. E. Englewood, Colorado 80113
Phone: (303) 758-0188  Email: