How to Make Roman Shades, Roman Shade Pattern

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How to Make Roman Shades

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Understand Roman
Shades

  Folding
  Internal Battens
  Ideal Stackage
  
Lifting Mechanisms
  Appropriate Fabrics


Measure and Design
  
Mounting Options
  
Measure Window
  Operating the Hardware Calculator
  
Sketch Your "Pattern"
  Pattern Template
  Example Pattern   
 
Gather Fabric and Hardware
  Required Tools

Common Techniques
  Cut Fabrics
 
Hem Bottoms
 
Sew Side Seams
 
Glue Battens
 
Sew Lift Rings
 
String Shade
 
Mount Shade

Make Classic Roman Shades
  Close Top with Velcro
  Make Headrail
  Make Side Tabs

Make Top-Down and Bottom-Up Shades
  How Cords Operate
 
Finished Dimensions
  Folding TDBU Shade
 
Design Plan
 
Make TDBU Headrail
 
Cord Lock on TDBU
 
Make TDBU Shade
 
Mount TDBU Shade 

Make Top-Down Only

Make Valance

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We are your specialists for making Roman shades, buying Roman shade hardware and learning how to make Roman shades, whether Classic flat shades or top down bottom up shades.
Part 5: How To Make a Top-Down/Bottom-Up Shade 
Now that you have made your sewn on your Bottom-Up Lift Rings, you are ready to attach the Top-Down rings

As you follow the Steps, you can click on the links for more information. Then use the Back button on you browser to return to this page. If you have already printed out prior Sections, simply print out this page also and refer back to earlier parts. If you are unclear about any terms used, I have given many definitions in the FAQs Terms and Definitions Section.

Step 18. Sew Top-Down Rings. Use a hand saw to cut the Stiffener Board 1/4" shorter than the Finished width of the top pocket. Slip this into the pocket and whipstitch both sides closed. Do this before you sew on your rings.
Use the headrail to mark the location of the Top-Down lift rings. Once again, lay the shade face down on your worktable (the lining side is facing you). Position the headrail so that the front of the board (the side with the Velcro on it) is facing down, with the pulleys pointed towards the bottom of the shade. Move the mounting board so that directly on top of the shade. Make a small pencil mark, or use a straight pin (as shown in the photograph) on the Stiffener Pocket at the center of each Top-Down pulley (these are the ones along the Front side of the headrail, those furthest from you, since the front side of the headrail is touching the shade).  

Sew the Top-Down lift rings right at the top-edge of the stiffener pocket. The top edge of the pocket is defined by the stitch line, which is 1/2" down from the top of the fabric shade. It is VERY important that the top edge of the ring be at the top edge of the pocket. Your top stitches should be slightly offset. You will be tying a lift cord onto this shade and it will be centered on the ring. The knot that secures this cord to the lift ring will be hidden by the 1/2" flap of fabric. DON'T SEW THE RINGS AT THE TOP EDGE OF THE FABRIC. If you do, you have defeated the purpose of adding that little flap of fabric! Be sure that you have the Stiffener Board in the pocket. It is a little awkward to sew on the rings, but if you try to do it before inserting the board, you will invariably sew the pocket together.

If you are making a Top-Down Only shade, return to those directions by clicking here.

Step 19. String your lift cords.

 

Turn your shade upside down on a table or on the floor. Each Top-Down lift cord is simply tied to the lift ring sewn on the stiffener pocket. Run the cord along the top of the shade, down to the very bottom of the shade and then at least 20-inches past where you want the cord drop. Cut the cord. (You will need all of this cord when you are installing the shade, don't skimp.) Repeat with the remaining cords.

Now string the Bottom-Up cords. Begin with the right-most column of rings. I start at the bottom of the shade and pass the cord through every ring in a vertical line up to the top of the shade. Now run the cord along the top of the shade to the left-hand side. Run the cord down the left side of the shade (not through the Top-Down rings, but next to the shade, this will be the part that you pull) to about 20-inches longer than you want the final cord to be. Cut the cord several inches past the lowest ring (where you started stringing the cord) and then tie the end of the cord to that bottom ring using a square knot.

While the shade is still upside down, pull firmly on each knot, trim the extra cord to about 1/2" past the knot and put a small dab of glue on both the knot and the very end of the cord. Use a glue meant for fabrics, such as Aleene's Jewel-It, Gem-Tac, or Fabri-Tac. Regular white glue, such as Elmer's, will dry out in the sun and crack. Let the glue dry overnight or at least until it is clear.

Step 20. Insert the weight rod into the hem of the lining. If you used non-decorator fabric, spray the front of your shade with a stain-resistant spray, such as Scotchgard, and let it dry completely. (Almost all decorator fabrics are already treated, check the label on the bolt.)

 
Continue the Learning Process with "Mount Top-Down/Bottom-Up Shade"

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A Comment on Copyright
These directions are meant for you to print out and make your own shades. My intention in posting them here for anyone to see and use is two-fold:
I no longer have to answer the same questions over and over again.
I am hoping that when you make your shades, you will order some or all of the hardware and supplies from me.

There is, of course, no way that I can guarantee that you purchase anything from me. However, there is one thing you should NOT do. That is, modify and claim these directions as your own. 


Contact Information:

Terrell Designs, owned by Terrell Sundermann 
5325 Sanford Cir. E. Englewood, Colorado 80113
Phone: (303) 758-0188  Email:

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How to Make Roman Shades, Roman Shade Pattern