Make a Top-Down

As you follow the Steps, you can click on the links for more information. Then use the Back button on you browser to return to this page. If you have already printed out prior Sections, simply print out this page also and refer back to earlier parts. If you are unclear about any terms used, I have given many definitions in the FAQs Terms and Definitions Section.

Step 10. Follow the instructions for How to Cut Front Fabric and Lining. Note the directions on how to join multiple widths of fabric for large shades.

Step 11. Hem both the front fabric and the lining. The length of both your front fabric and your lining should now be about the Finished Shade Length plus 4".

Step 12. Join the front fabric and the lining at the side seams, making a "tube". After you have turned the tube right-side out, measure the width in several locations. This should be the same as your Finished Shade Width. If it is not, decide if you can live with the "new" width or whether you need to re-sew one or both side seams.

Step 13. Make the top pocket for the Stiffener Board and cover the raw side edges at the bottom of the shade by folding up the fabric and tacking.

How to "Finish" Bottom of Side Seams:
You will be leaving the bottom of your shade open (it will look like a pillowcase). However, you do need to hide the 1/2" of raw edges at the bottom of the shade at the side seams. While the colored thread is still in your sewing machine, fold the bottom of the side seams up and tack.  

Step 14. Make all of your final measurements for your battens and weight rod now so that you can cut the mounting board, battens and weight rod. Sewing is an imprecise art and your actual Finished Shade Width and Finished Shade Length may be slightly different from your Design Plan. This is why you bought items a little bit longer than your "ideal" measurements.
Battens: Cut 1/2" shorter than the width at the MIDDLE of your shade
Weight Rod: Turn your shade over and measure the width of the LINING at the hem (it will be almost an inch narrower than your measurement for the mounting board and battens). Cut the weight rod 1/2" shorter than the width of the Lining. This means that the weight rod will be cut about 1" to 1-1/2" narrower than the width of the shade.

Step 15. Glue Battens inside your shade. You can skip this step if you are willing to "train" your shade to fold and "dress" the folds periodically. If you want a truly professional shade, I urge you to use internal battens.

Step 16. Use the Headrail to mark the locations of your Guide rings. 
Now mark one more row of rings using the Bottom-Up pulleys. These should be somewhere near the top of the shade, but BELOW the Stiffener Pocket. You will pass the Bottom-Up lift cord through these rings to keep the top of the shade lined up when you lower it. Sew on your Guide rings.

Step 17. Sew Top-Down Rings. Now string your lift cords.

Turn your shade upside down on a table or on the floor. Each Top-Down lift cord is simply tied to the lift ring sewn on the stiffener pocket. Run the cord along the top of the shade, down to the very bottom of the shade and then at least 20-inches past where you want the cord drop. Cut the cord. (You will need all of this cord when you are installing the shade, don't skimp.) Repeat with the remaining cords.

Now string the Guide cords. Run a cord through each ring in a column. Leave about 20" at the top. Cut the cord several inches past the lowest ring and tie the end of the cord to that bottom ring using a square knot. While the shade is still upside down, pull firmly on each knot (both the top-down cords and the guide cords), trim the extra cord to about 1/2" past the knot and put a small dab of glue on both the knot and the very end of the cord. Use a glue meant for fabrics, such as Aleene's Jewel-It, Gem-Tac or Fabri-Tac. Regular white glue, such as Elmer's will dry out in the sun and crack. Let the glue dry overnight or at least until it is clear.

Step 18. Insert the weight rod into the hem of the lining. If you used non-decorator fabric, spray the front of your shade with a stain-resistant spray, such as Scotchgard, and let it dry completely. (Almost all decorator fabrics are already treated, check the label on the bolt.)

Step 19. String Top-Down Only Shade. After a lot of thought, I have decided that the only way to string this shade is to do it on a table or floor before mounting it to the wall.  don't currently have any photographs for a Top-Down Only shade, so you may want to read over the Top-Down/Bottom-Up Shade Mounting instructions. These instructions also assume that you will have the Top-Down controls on the right-hand side of the shade. You don't have to do that, but if you reverse the cord location, it's up to you to reverse left and right in the instructions below. You ALWAYS have the Top-Down pulleys on the FRONT of the headrail and the Guide screw eyes on the BACK of the headrail.  See the additional instructions if you are using cord locks.

A: Lay shade upside down on flat surface. Place mounting board with Velcro down at top of shade. The Top-Down pulleys will be away from you and should line up with the Top-Down lift rings.
B: Thread each Guide cord through the Guide Screw Eye directly above it. Making sure that everything is square and that you have a taut line, securely tie a square knot at the screw eye. Don't cut the extra cord yet, you may need to adjust this when the shade is hanging.
C: String Top-Down lift cords. The Top-Down lift cords are tied to the top lift rings. They will be threaded through the pulleys and the small screw eye. All cords will go directly up to the pulley it lines up with on the headrail, entering the pulley from the right-hand side and exiting the left-hand side. Each cord is then threaded through the remaining FRONT pulleys on the headrail and finally through the small knot screw eye, exiting on the left-hand side of your board. (Since your system is upside down, this will be the right-hand side when mounted at your window.) Loosely knot all cords together about 10" outside of the Knot Screw Eye.  Your knot has to be large enough so that it cannot pass back through the knot screw eye.
D: Separate the lift cords and gently pull on each one separately, making sure that you have the same tension on each cord. 

Step 20. Mount Top-Down Only Shade. Attach Headrail to wall or window trim and install Cord Cleats. Mark the position of the top of the entire Top-Down Only shade system. Attach the headrail to the wall or window trim. Attach a cord cleat on the right-hand side of the window. Use a level to make sure that the mounting board is installed on the horizontal.  

Step 21. Complete Top-Down Function. Firmly grasp all of the lift cords, untie your temporary knot and lower the shade. Check that the top is level by stopping the shade just below the window trim. Readjust tension on cords if necessary. Continue to lower the shade. It should fall in clean folds because of the Guide cords. When it is in the lowest position that you want, carefully knot all the cords at the top of the shade, just outside of the small screw eye. Your knot has to be large enough so that it cannot pass back through the screw eye. If you don't have a knot, your shade will drop to the floor!

Now test the Top-Down operation by pulling on the lift cord. The shade should pull up and down in clean folds and the top of the shade should be level. Lower the shade and finish off the cords by braiding the cords after the knot, then inserting the ends into a cord drop. The end of the braided cords should be as short as possible, it will get longer when you raise the shade. Extend your arm straight out toward the window and use that location to determine the position of the cord drop when the shade is lowered completely.

Now you need to make and attach your Valance.

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A Comment on Copyright
These directions are meant for you to print out and make your own shades. My intention in posting them here for anyone to see and use is two-fold:

	I no longer have to answer the same questions over and over again.
	I am hoping that when you make your shades, you will order some or all of the hardware and supplies from me.

There is, of course, no way that I can guarantee that you purchase anything from me. However, there is one thing you should NOT do. That is, modify and claim these directions as your own. 

Contact Information:
Terrell Designs, owned by Terrell Sundermann 
5325 Sanford Cir. E. Englewood, Colorado 80113
Phone: (303) 758-0188  Email: